Thinking of taking the Slow Boat in Laos? I’ve done the journey twice, once on the public boat and once on a premium boat, so here’s what to expect, how much it costs, what to pack, and whether it’s actually worth it.
Taking the Slow Boat in Laos is pretty much a rite of passage when backpacking around Southeast Asia. You’ll spend two full days cruising down the Mekong River, and despite the horror stories you’ll read online, I’d happily do it again.
I’ve actually done the journey twice, once on the public slow boat and once on a premium boat. They were completely different experiences, but if you asked me to choose between either of them and another overnight bus, I’d be booking the boat every time.
I’m not going to pretend it’s the most comfortable journey in Southeast Asia. You’ll spend two long days sitting on a wooden boat, boarding can be chaotic, and the toilet situation is questionable at best. But if you go in with the right expectations, it’s easily one of the most memorable ways to travel through Laos.
Whether you’re trying to decide between the public and premium boats, wondering how much it costs, or just want to know if it’s actually worth it, here’s everything you need to know before you go.
Taking The Slow Boat To Luang Prabang In Laos: My Top Tips
What Is The Slow Boat
The slow boat is a long taxi boat fitted out with a bunch of seats. Over 2 days, it’ll take you from the border town of Huay Xai in Northern Laos to the tourist town of Luang Prabang.
You’ll travel along the iconic Mekong River and stop overnight in Pakbeng along the way. Each day is at least 6 hours onboard, depending on the water level and season.
It’s a popular option with backpackers and those who prefer to travel more slowly. It may not be the easiest or fastest way to travel from Northern Thailand to Luang Prabang, but it’ll be a great start to your Laos itinerary.
Main points of the journey:
Why Take The Slow Boat From Huay Xai To Luang Prabang
The main reason people take the slow boat is simply for the experience. You’ll get off the busy tourist track and enjoy a bit of a slower pace. For me, this journey was something I worked into my itinerary and turned out to be a massive highlight.
It’s great since literally all you can do is relax and watch the world go by. Take in the sight of playing water buffalo alongside locals and changing landscapes. There’s barely any phone reception and no power, so it’s time to turn off those distractions.
The boats, even the more expensive premium ones, are in no way a luxury experience. However, that’s not why you book it. Instead, use the time to enjoy some fresh air, do some travel planning, and meet new people.
The Different Types Of Slow Boats
Back in the day, there used to be just one basic choice, which was the public slow boat. Though nowadays you can also book a slow boat tour from Chiang Rai, or even book a premium slow boat. One is a lot cheaper than the others, though with that comes the crowds and having to organize it all yourself.
Public Slow Boat
The Public Boat is the most popular choice and the one I took on my first trip to Laos. I had seen it on YouTube and knew I wanted the full backpacking Southeast Asia experience.
The boat was full of locals and travelers from all over the world. This is a much cheaper option for getting to Luang Prabang, and if you’re on a budget in Laos this is the go-to choice. It’s also affordable at $23.00 / 500,000 LAK for the full journey from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, excluding your hotel in Pakbeng.
However, these boats are usually full to the brim. It’s a mad rush to find your seats, so the earlier you are there the better the options available. Honestly, it’s similar to being stuck on a bus or plane, where you just sit down, look out the window, and get up to use the bathroom every so often.
Prepare yourself for limited personal space and sitting shoulder to shoulder with someone you may not know. Seating is also pretty basic, with old car seats being repurposed, though thankfully it’s more comfortable than a wooden bench.
Though for me it was all about the experience, I had a good time getting to know the other travelers, and in reality, 6 hours on a boat per day is one of the easier travel days I’ve had.
Slow Boat Transport Package
You used to be able to get from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai in the early morning and arrive in time to catch the boat. However, timetables have changed, and this is a lot more difficult to do.
In order to get to the border from Chiang Rai in time, you’ll need to book a private taxi, which can be quite expensive. Though you can now book a slow boat package, which includes transport, your slow boat tickets, and the bus across the border.
These packages aren’t too bad, considering they cost about the same as if you were to do it yourself. Though be aware reviews aren’t that great since you’re on the public slow boat, it can be pretty crowded and not the most comfortable. Just set your expectations, it’s still a great option if you don’t want to deal with the logistics.
Premium Slow Boat
Now, if you’re looking for a more luxurious slow boat experience, this is definitely the one for you. On the premium slow boat, you’ll get a modern, clean boat with plenty of space to move around and seating options.
I did one of these on my second slow boat journey, and wow was it a massive difference. Meals weren’t just cup noodles but full buffets, we had a table to play cards, and the group size was so much smaller. It turned a crammed travel day into an experience along the Mekong River.
This is a lot more pricey, coming to around $250.00 per person. However, if you have the budget, it’s well worth splurging for that extra comfort.
An extra bonus of these premium boats is that they will include a guide who will share their knowledge of the area, as well as a stop at the impressive Pak Ou Caves.
Crossing The Thai-Laos Border
To get on a slow boat in Huay Xai you’ll have to cross the Thai Laos border. Luckily, this is a pretty easy crossing with hundreds of tourists doing it every day, so it’s unlikely you’ll be alone.
I stayed the night prior in Chiang Khong at the super affordable Namkhong Guesthouse and Resort, paying less than $10.00 for a twin room. That morning, I took a tuk-tuk to the border which cost $4.50.
The Friendship Bridge #4 border is open from 6:00 am to 10:00 pm, and being the first thing in the morning, the border was extremely quiet. It was super fast to be processed through the Thai side and officially exit the country.
To get between the Laos and Thai immigration offices, you’ll need to pay 25 THB / $0.75 for the bus. This ride lasts a quick 10 minutes as you cross the Friendship Bridge.
When you jump off the bus on the Lao side, it’s a mad rush to get your forms filled out to avoid delays. Just make sure you write it out correctly and have a pen with you! In case you don’t have USD for the visa fee, there is an ATM a few steps away, so no need to worry about getting cash beforehand.
All up, the process probably took about 30 minutes to receive my Lao visa, and most of this time was spent waiting in line.
Steps For Crossing The Border
- Stay the night in Chiang Khong so you can get to the border early in the morning
- Take a tuk-tuk to the Thai border from Chiang Khong
- Go through Thai immigration and get stamped out of Thailand
- Pay 25 THB / $0.75 for the bus across the Friendship Bridge to the Laos side
- Take the 10-minute bus ride between the Thai and Laos immigration offices
- Get off on the Laos side and grab the arrival & visa forms
- Fill out the 2 different papers straight away so you do not get stuck behind the crowds
- Hand in your immigration forms, passport, and spare passport photo to the officer in the far right window
- Wait near the window on the left for your name to be called
- Pay your visa fee once your name has been called. You can use the ATM nearby in case you do not have cash
Where To Catch The Slow Boat From In Huay Xai
Once you have crossed the border into Laos, you can head to the slow boat pier.
This is around a 30-minute walk from the main town and even longer from the border. You’ll be best off getting a tuk-tuk or a songthaew, especially since you’ll have your bags as well. This will cost you around 50,000 LAK / $2.30 in a shared vehicle.
Simply let the driver know you want to go to the slow boat pier, and they will know exactly where to go. The drive takes around 20 minutes, and you may drop off people staying in the main town of Huay Xai along the way.
Cost Of Taking The Slow Boat
Once at the pier, you can walk up the staircase on the hill opposite the boats. At the top is a little hut where you can purchase your tickets for the slow boat. You’ll have the option of going to Pakbeng or Luang Prabang, though you’ll want to buy the latter.
The price is $23.00 / 500,000 LAK for the 2-day journey to Luang Prabang on the public slow boat. Make sure to bring enough cash as cards aren’t accepted.
This price only includes a seat on the slow boat, so you’ll still need to buy your own food and drinks, as well as your accommodation in Pakbeng and transfer into the city center of Luang Prabang when you arrive at the pier.
For your chance at the best seats, the earlier the better. Seats closer to the front are in higher demand, as the ones down the back are next to the motor, which can be super noisy. Though the assigned seats are only valid for the first day of the journey, the second day is first-come, first-served.
You can also buy your ticket in town rather than having to go down to the pier. However, you will pay a few dollars more for the luxury, but it will include a tuk-tuk transfer.
Day 1 On The Slow Boat From Huay Xai To Pakbeng
After getting your tickets, it’s well worth going for a walk around and picking up some food for lunch. You’ll find plenty of stalls around the pier selling sandwiches, which is a great takeaway option if you don’t want to be stuck eating cup noodles. My peanut butter baguette was my purchase of the day.
There’s a 50/50 chance there will be allocated seating. But don’t stress too much about it, people switch around, and no one sticks to it. In my experience, it was also the solo travelers sitting together and the couples in another group.
There isn’t a set time the boat is open to jump on, so just make your way down when you’re ready and chuck your big bags down the back. Just remember, the closer your bags are to the bottom of the pile, the longer you’ll be waiting in Pakbeng to get them.
The seats are surprisingly comfortable, being chairs repurposed from old vans. Though since they aren’t bolted to the ground, it can be a fight for legroom.
Honestly, there isn’t too much to do onboard, so get comfortable. I passed the time by talking to fellow travelers, writing in my journal, and taking photos of the countryside. Also, it can be handy if you have a portable charger for your phone, and a Laos/Thai eSIM. Your Thai one will work for about half of the first day.
Staying In Pakbeng
The township of Pakbeng seemingly pops out of nowhere and is a basic overnight stop. Most people just eat, sleep, and leave. It may be simple, but I was so happy when we arrived, finally being able to stretch my legs.
Now, depending on where your bag is in the massive pile on the boat, will determine how long you’ll have to wait around. My one was right at the bottom on my first trip, so it was quite a bit of standing around.
When you head off the boat, you’ll be surrounded by locals holding up signs with available rooms. You can book in advance online, however I recommend waiting until you arrive and paying cash. Nothing is too flash here, and you should budget to spend about $20.00 for a private room. I managed to get a room with AC, which was amazing.
In the evening, you’ll have a few options on the main road for dinner. My advice is to find somewhere with a good view of the river and a nice vibe of fellow travelers.
Prices are a little more than I thought, though I guess it’s because it’s so isolated. I paid $3.90 for a sandwich, and also ordered 2 more to pick up the following day, one for breakfast and one for lunch.
Day 2 On The Slow Boat From Pakbeng To Luang Prabang
There are a few places in Pakbeng where you can get an American breakfast and coffee, or perhaps even a bagel. After breakfast, you’ll head back to the slow boat around 8.30 am – 9 am and jump on board for your second day.
There aren’t any assigned seating today, so the earlier the better. I was late, but thankfully they started filling up a second boat just in time, so I managed to snag a seat near the front.
If you’re lucky, you should be able to see elephants across the river at the nearby Mekong Elephant Park, which is a no-riding sanctuary. Though I recommend visiting one of the ethical elephant sanctuaries in Chiang Mai if you get the chance.
The sights in the first half of day 2 are pretty similar to those on day 1. You’ll see water buffalo, jungle, and what life is like out here in rural Laos. It can get a bit mentally exhausting and repetitive, so it’s a good chance to catch up on sleep.
My favorite part is when you’re a few hours away from Luang Prabang and the landscapes start getting a lot more dramatic with limestone karsts.
You will also pass by the popular Pak Ou Caves and see boats lined up with tourists. Unfortunately, the public boat doesn’t stop here, but the premium ones do. Otherwise, you can book a tour once you’re in Luang Prabang.
Arriving In Luang Prabang
One of the main things you will read online about the Laos slow boat is being dropped off in the middle of nowhere and paying ridiculous prices to get to Luang Prabang town. This is all old information.
Docking up, everyone forms a human chain to help get the bags off. The late afternoon heat is intense, and you’ll be desperate for shade. Once your bag has made its way out, climb the steep stairs up the riverbank to the tuk-tuk stand at the top.
Here you’ll give your details, pay 100,000 LAK / $4.50 per person for a shared tuk-tuk, and then jump on. It’s definitely on the pricey side for a 20-minute drive. I saw some people choose to walk out, but it’s a long and dusty road in the midday heat. I wouldn’t recommend it when you’ll only save a dollar or two.
You’ll be dropped off in a central location in the tourist center of Luang Prabang, likely near the Night Market. From here you can easily walk or get a tuk-tuk to your accommodation (there’s no Grab in Laos but they do have their version called LOCA).
Need somewhere to stay once you arrive? Check out my guide on where to stay in Luang Prabang and the best hostels for budget travelers.
There are plenty of awesome things to do, so much that I recommend spending at least three days in Luang Prabang. It’s a beautiful city with gorgeous landscapes, some of Laos best waterfalls, and delicious food.
Typical Timeline For The Slow Boat
Day 0, Option 1, Stay In Chiang Khong:
- Arrive in Chiang Khong and stay overnight before the border crossing
Day 1, Option 1:
- 6:30 am – 7:00 am: Head to the Thai-Laos border
- 7:00 am – 7:30 am: Cross immigration, take the bus over the Friendship Bridge, and enter Laos
- 7:30 am – 8:00 am: Travel to the slow boat pier
- 8:00 am – 8:30 am: Purchase your ticket for the slow boat
Day 0, Option 2, Stay In Huay Xai:
- Arrive in Chiang Khong
- 3:00 pm – 3:30 pm: Head to the Thai-Laos border
- 3:30 pm – 4:30 pm: Cross immigration, take the bus over the Friendship Bridge, and enter Laos
- 4:30 pm – 5:00 pm: Travel to Huay Xai and stay the night
- 5:00 pm – 5:30 pm: Prebook your slow boat at a travel agency in town
Day 1 On The Slow Boat:
- 8:30 am: Be at the slow boat pier and board the boat
- 9:00 am – 9:30 am: The slow boat usually departs from Huay Xai
- 9:30 am – 4:30 pm: Cruise down the Mekong River to Pakbeng
- 4:30 pm – 5:00 pm: Unload bags from the boat and find your guesthouse
Day 2 On The Slow Boat:
- 7:00 am – 8:00 am: Have breakfast in Pakbeng and grab food for the boat
- 8:00 am – 8:30 am: Head back down to the pier and line up for boarding
- 9:00 am: Boat departs from Pakbeng
- 9:00 am – 5:00 pm: Continue down the Mekong River toward Luang Prabang
- 5:00 pm: Arrive at the Luang Prabang slow boat pier, collect your bags, and take a shared tuk-tuk into town
- 5:00 pm – 6:00 pm: Arrive in the center of Luang Prabang and make your way to your accommodation
Total Costs Of The DIY Slow Boat Journey
Here’s my total costs for taking the slow boat to Laos:
- Green Bus from Chiang Mai to Chiang Khong – $16.00
- Hotel in Chiang Khong – $9.50
- Tuk-tuk to the border – $4.50
- Bus across the Friendship Bridge – $0.75
- Shared songthaew to the pier – $2.30
- Boat ticket – $23.00
- Guesthouse in Pakbeng – $20
- Tuk-tuk into Luang Prabang center – $4.50
- My Total Cost Traveling Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang – $80.55
Note that I haven’t included my visa amount in this total since that depends on the exact country you’re from. Food and drink also aren’t included as this can vary from person to person. For typical costs check out my Laos Travel Costs & Daily Budget Guide.
What To Pack For The Journey
While on board, your main bag will be at the back and basically unreachable. You should pack all essentials in your day pack, which you will have tucked under your seat.
Jacket: It can be quite cool in the mornings on the Mekong River until the sun appears. You can even use it as a pillow later in the day.
Cash: Since we’re in rural Laos you’ll need cash to pay for everything. A lot of places in Pakbeng and Huay Xai will still accept Thai Baht in good condition, which is great if you have some leftover.
Sunblock: Depending on the direction the boat is facing, you may be stuck under the sun so this is a must if you don’t want to get burned.
Toilet Paper: The toilets on the boat are not the best, and trust me, just bring toilet paper or wet wipes.
Snacks & Water: You don’t go on a road trip without snacks and drinks, so don’t do the slow boat without them either! You’ll want at least 1.5 liters of water.
Entertainment: Best to take some sort of entertainment, like a book and a portable charger for your phone. There are no tables, so I wouldn’t bother with cards.
Additional Tips Worth Knowing
The Toilet Situation On The Slow Boat
The toilets on these boats are not great. Honestly, the toilet itself was not too bad, but lord, did it flood.
Make sure to bring toilet paper because it’s likely there won’t be any on board.
Try to go relatively early and then hold on until you arrive in Pakbeng. I am going to assume it’s water from the bucket that is used to flush the toilet, and nothing else!
Accommodation Scams
Do not listen to the man who will come onto the slow boat and start selling accommodation. These beds are overpriced, and it is a scam.
I’ll admit I fell for this one on my first trip, but I knew better than this for my second trip. When you arrive in Pakbeng, you’ll see all the locals advertising their available rooms. If you’re traveling in a group, I recommend that one person sort the accommodation while the other gathers the bags.
Access To Internet
Your Thailand SIM card will work for the majority of the journey! Yes, even though we are not technically in Thailand, we’re so close to the border that Thai SIMs work, and Laotian ones don’t. The same thing goes for eSIMs as well.
You can buy a Laos SIM card in Huay Xai for pretty cheap. However, you won’t be able to use it much on the first day.
FAQs About Taking The Laos Slow Boat
Is the slow boat to Laos worth it?
Yes, I think the slow boat to Laos is worth it, so much so that I’ve done it multiple times. It’s an enjoyable way to travel where you can relax, enjoy the scenery, and see rural Laos.
Do I need to book the slow boat in advance?
No, you don’t need to book the slow boat in advance. However, I recommend heading to the pier early to book your tickets and nab a good seat on the boat, not down the back by the noisy motor.
Should I stay in Chiang Khong or Huay Xai the night before?
I recommend staying in Huay Xai the night before the slow boat. It’s a quaint town, and it means you won’t have to deal with border stress or rushing the morning of.
Can I buy food and drinks on board?
Yes, there is a little shop onboard where you can purchase food and drinks. Typically, it sells basic items like water, cup noodles, soda, and beer. If you have specific cravings, you’re best off buying this in Huay Xai and bringing it with you
Wrap Up: Ready For The Slow Boat To Laos
Now you should be able to take the slow boat with ease! Don’t fall for the scams, snag yourself a comfortable seat, bring some snacks, and remember this is not just your typical transport method but an experience.
This is one of the most memorable ways to enter Laos and will kick off your adventures here with something new. Sure, it may be slow, but that’s the point. Grab a cold drink, catch up on reading, and get to know the other travelers heading the same way.
Ready to explore more of Laos? Check out my 2 week itinerary.
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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. So, if you click on it and purchase something, I get a small percentage at no extra cost to you. As always all opinions are my own and your support is much appreciated.
Photo credit: “Chiang Khong, Thailand 22” (CC BY 2.0) by JamesAntrobus . “The slow boat up the Mekong River in Laos” (CC BY 2.0) by DanSearle
Want more Northern Thailand Inspiration? Check out….
- 3 Weeks In Thailand Itinerary
- Cost To Travel Thailand & My Budget Of $23.00 Per Day
- Backpacking Thailand On A Budget Guide
- Best Hostels On Khao San Road
- How To Travel From Bangkok To Chiang Mai
- Taking The Overnight Sleeper Train From Bangkok to Chiang Mai
- Backpacking Bangkok Travel Guide
- 2 Days In Bangkok Itinerary
- Day Trip To Ayutthaya From Bangkok
- Traveling From Chiang Mai To Luang Prabang
- Chiang Mai Sunday Night Market Guide
- The Best Elephant Sanctuaries In Chiang Mai
- The Best Hostels In Chiang Mai
- 3 Days In Chiang Mai Itinerary
- Taking The Slow Boat To Laos From Thailand
- Chiang Mai Airport to The City Centre (Old City)
- Vegetarian Cooking Class In Chiang Mai
- Visiting The White Temple In Chiang Rai (Wat Rong Khun)
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Thanks for sharing your tips! The insights on navigating the slow boat experience in Laos are super helpful. I can’t wait to try the local snacks you recommended and appreciate the advice on preparing for the long journey. It sounds like an unforgettable adventure!
Great article. How much was the private boat?
Thank you for the detailed guide! I love how you emphasize the beauty of slowing down and enjoying the journey along the Mekong River. Your tips, especially about the border crossing, are super helpful for anyone planning the trip. It sounds like a unique way to experience Southeast Asia at a relaxed pace!
this 2024 I read and just did it but we booked the slow boat to Laos with So Good airline service and Travel (agency) for 1490 Baht only because many people recommended this company on google and they were amazing. Everything was so smooth and they took care of everything – from dropping us off at the border, helping with the visa and dropping us off at the slow boat. We even got a sandwich included! I think it was very value for money.
Hi, Tasha.
Reading your post made me feel good because it reminded me of an old experience.
According to the latest information, the slow boat stop has been moved to the south of Huay Xai.
Your MyMaps map still seems to show the old stop. I hope you can take another look at it.
(Of course, people will probably take a tuktuk or some other form of transportation anyway, so the chances of them making a mistake are small…)
Hey! The speed boat pier is to the south of the township, however the slow boat pier is where listed. A year ago or so a location popped up online called “new slow boat pier” near the speed boat pier, however this was a scam run by a local travel agency trying to get people to book with them.
Oh, my God!
Sometime after the new bridge was built between Chiang Kong, Thailand and Huay Xai, Laos, I started to get information that the slowboat stop had been moved, and now a few sources were pointing to where I said it was.
I don’t plan on traveling that way anytime soon, but I could have easily spread misinformation.
(Even OpenStreetMap – which I trust because the local information is often quite accurate, you can check it out on Maps.me, etc. – has misinformation on it.)
Thanks to you for correcting my mistake.
(It was a good thing I asked you the question).
Hi Tasha, thank you for your narrative for this journey. Wife and I will be doing the trip this coming February and was wondering who the company you used for the trip. Looks comfortable and sparse in the number of people on board. You mentioned $150 p/p. Assuming that was the cost when you traveled. Thank you again
Unfortunately the company is no longer operating post covid. If you are wanting to book something in advance Luxury Cruise Mekong or Luang Say Cruise booked through Mekong Cruise have options. For cheaper prices you may need to wait until you are in Chiang Rai / Chiang Khong / Huay Xai to shop around for a deal and be flexible with dates.
Just took this journey end of july 2023 after reading this guide many times.
Firstly, the price from the docks was ~430,000lak and from the hostel in huay xai including a tuktuk to the dock (which left ridiculously early and we ended up sitting on the boat for about 2 hours, welcome to lao time) cost 440,000lak. Found this out only because we hadnt found anything recent on the internet regarding prices and couldnt tell if we were getting ripped off.
We had beautiful weather and the journey involved meeting all sorts of foreigners, locals and kids who just jumped on at unmarked stops. Highly recommend buying a cooler and filling it with beerlao at one of the convenience stores in huay xai.
Pakbeng is a very charming town, with ~200 families who all know each other. Upon arrival we found a guesthouse with about 9 rooms available that were ~200,000 lak per night for 2 people. Cheaper than the 9-beds-to-a-room hostel on booking.com (it did not get great reviews from our boat buddies). There’s definitely more options in town than the apps suggest, so dont be too worried about booking in advance. The happy bar is open late and is THE bar in town. Worth a look and a few drinks over a game of pool.
The second day’s boat was more comfortable and less crowded, and knowing what to do, what to bring and how it all worked after the confusion of day one was nice. There scenery is good but just keep in mind the mekong is an incredibly polluted river. It is brown and full of plastic, and once you reach luang prabang you can see the difference between the small tributaries (with no plastic) and the mekong.
Speaking of luang prabang, yes, the boat drops you off ~45minutes from the city by tuktuk. The tuktuks do set pricing per person, so singles have to find a group (usually min. 4 people) or wait for the tuktuk to fill.
Luang prabang itself was beautiful, one of the most picturesque cities ive seen in asia.
Some people we met took the bus which was 18 hours straight of bumpy roads and they shared sleeper beds with strangers on the bus, so I’m not sure i would recommend this route. On the other hand, some people taking the boat a few days after us got drenched in non stop rain for two days and had a very different opinion of the boat journey, so your milage may vary.
Hey Andy!
Thanks for the comment! I have updated the prices in the article to reflect your recent experience for future travelers who may read this post.
You have listed some good tips so thank you for taking the time to write this.
Enjoy your travels!
Do you know if this immigration point accepts e visas?
As Of April 11, 2023, Thai=Lao Friendship Bridge IV does NOT accept e-visas for US passport holders. However, it is fast and easy to get a visa on arrival. I recommend having you visa photos in hand to expedite the process.
Slow boat departs at 9.30h every morning (the ticket staff said its been like this for a year). We (and several other tourists) lost ours today thinking it was at 11.30h.
It is now impossible to get the first bus at Chiang Rai and arrive in time for the slow boat, so now this tiring journey will waste 3 of your beautiful days.
Took the journey today. Boats now seem to be running every day of the week. I saw multiple other boats packed with tourists. Mine was 95 percent full. Departed Huay Xei at 11 am. So its quite possible to stay in chiang rai the night before and get picked up between 6 and 7 am and still have plenty of time. Border crossing now quite straighforward. 40 dollars for the visa for most nationalites.
The package i bought in CR was 1690 baht and included boat ticket and all transfers
Good to book ahead for accommodation in Pak Beng i think. The hotels include transfers. I opted for mekhong guesthouse. Only 12 usd or so on agoda. Nice room with a view and decent food offerings for em dinner and breakfast.
The first day voyage is from 11 am to 5 pm and the 2nd day 9am to 5 pm. For some reason the boat travels slower (10 knots) on the 2nd day for the latter half of the trip, instead of the average 15 knots otherwise.
Lao sim cards work well most of the way. Thai sim cards have coverage if you’re roaming. Lao sim the better way to go. 5 days unlimited data for 200 baht.
Noodles, snacks and beer on board, not much more expensive than on land. I wouldn’t mess with an ice box) . Large ice cold beers at the bar for 25000 kip certainly made a long slow journey more bearable.
A pleasant journey all in all even for non backpacker types like myself in my sixties.
Certainly a novel and cheap way of getting from Northern Thailand to Laos.
The very fast speedboat is way better. An absolute thrill and only takes 5 or so hours, with a stop in the middle for lunch at a restaurant on stilts in the middle of the river. You also change boats for the second part of the journey. I watched the slow boat people arrive while I was sipping a drink at a bar in Luang Prabang, it was the second night after we arrived having last seen them in Huay Xai. Probably best not to do this in the rainy season though as it’s more dangerous.
Hi Colin, Were you able to book the speedboat in advance from Chaing Rai or can you just turn up and find one. i am going in November and want to have the certainty of booking as only have a few days there. thanks. Julie
I am also going in November, on the 3rd. Did you find out if you can book this speedboat in advance?
Thanks for this intersting article!
Regarding the public slow boat, do you know where we can find more detail on the hours of departure. I will sleep in chang rai the day before and I want to know if i have to rush to laos in the morning or if there are afternoon departures . Also do you recomend to book in advance.
I was just thinking the same!! We’re planning to do this crossing too and are looking for more info!
Hey! Departures are usually between 9am to 10am in the morning, the amount of travelers affects how many boats there are, but they usually head off around the same time. I would recommend staying in Chiang Khong or Huay Xai the night before, but not Chiang Rai. As far as I am aware there are no afternoon departures.
I have stayed in both Huay Xai on the Laos side and Chiang Khong on the Thai side. On the Thai side we left at around 8am to catch the first bus across the Friendship bridge at the border, and ended up with about an hour spare before the slow boat departed.
Oh one more thing. I booked ahead for Pakbeng and we were all met and taken to our accommodation for free. Same deal in the morning, back to boat, no charge.
I completed the journey yesterday. The slow boat only runs Monday and Thursday at the moment. No private boats at all. There is a tour company in Chiang Rai called Kochaporn Tour who were fantastic.
For 1690 THB you are picked up at your accomodation (6 to 6.30am) driven to the border, go through Thai border, tour guide meets you and gives a ticket for short bus ride. You are handed the Visa form plus entry/exit card for Laos. You then go through the various booths to be processed (all up, perhaps 1/2 hour) get on the tour transport to the boat. Easy……suggest you weigh up the cost but I think this option is pretty good value for money.
Hi Kate, thank you for this really helpful info from a recent experience! I will be doing something similar in October. Did this price include the fare for the slow boat journey, or do you pay for the boat on arrival at the dock? And did you pre-book any accommodation in Pakbeng or arrange that on arrival? Sorry for all the questions, any advice is hugely appreciated! Thanks!
For those buying your own slow boat ticket it’s currently 300000 kip per person and 80000 kip for a bicycle. As of 22nd Sept the boat only leaves on Monday and Thursday at 11.30 am.
Ahhh I’m convinced! It sounds looooong but great. Just to clarify, the journey you describe and picture above, is this the public boat?
Hey! It is a long day, but if you have done long bus trips it is no different, actually, it is better because the views here are awesome. Yup that is the public boat in the pics, though the majority of people on it do need up being travelers, with only a handful of locals who disembark at their villages along the river.
This is such a thorough and helpful post! Thank you so much. Planning on taking this route in October!
What month did you do this journey in? I’m looking to do it in September and wasn’t sure whether the fact that it is rainy season would affect my ability to do son?
Hey Chloe! I did this journey in February. Though as far as I am aware the boats run regularly throughout the year. I have heard that the boat trip is actually faster (and more bearable) during the wet season and after the wet season as the water currents are stronger, so in my opinion September would be a perfect time to do it. Maybe just spend a night before in Huay Xai to ensure you get onto a boat as its likely they do less trips per day in the wet season.
This post is so so helpful! I’ve saved it for when we do the same trip in April. Thank you!
I will be taking the slow boat in a few days and feeling a bit nervous! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. I loved how well you described exactly how it went which is easing my nervousness. I am looking forward to the experience!
Ooh, I’m planning to do that trip in the next few weeks and am so looking forward to it. Great post!
Was interested to read this because I considered doing it but really didn’t have the time so I flew from Chiang Mai to LP instead. I would like to do this sometime (even though it sounds like a mission with crazy Asia BS…as I fondly call it after being there 3 months). It looks like a memorable experience and so very SE asian. I LOVED Luang Prabang and hope you did too!
Wow, this sounds like a great journey! Thanks for the reccommodation! Saving it for my South East Asia trip next year
Thanks for your guide Tasha, I’m in Luang Prabang now and was thinking of doing the slow boat trip but after reading your article I’ve decided not to. I’m a 61 year old man who’s been backpacking since I was 18 so I’ve done plenty of hard travelling and know when I’ve had enough of it. It’s refreshing when someone is honest when writing about the downsides of a particular journey. I’ve no need to go to Huay Xai so after going from here to Nong Khiaw and maybe further north I’ll head down to Vientiane and Nong Khai in Thailand which I visited in 1988 before you could go to Laos.
This looks so much more enjoyable than taking the bus from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai (20+ hours, what I did!!) I agree the scenery on the river close to LP is incredible – with a good book to read and plenty of food (and not too much to drink!) this journey looks incredible! And definitely better than the bus ;-).
I actually had no idea there was a boat option to thailand! Thanks for this!
I didn’t even know this was a way you could travel from Thailand to Laos. Very cool! Although, I do think I’d probably be pretty stir-crazy by the second day. Sitting isn’t really my thing. :) Still, great way to travel, see pretty scenery, and do it all on a budget!